Balenciaga’s Autumn/Winter 2023 couture show was a dance between past and future, between tech and technique, and between modernising tradition and reinventing known histories, writes Alexander Fury
And modern is the word for his couture, fiercely and constantly. Just as Callas’ operatic arias were reconfigured, so were Balenciaga’s operatic clothes, the sculpted daywear and grand evening gowns examined with a new eye. The opening outfit was a literal reinterpretation of an original – a velvet evening gown with integrated pearl lariat from the 1960s in velvet, here worn by Danielle Slavik, one of Cristobal’s cabine from the final four years of his career, who modelled the gown back then.
Eveningwear is, of course, couture’s traditional closer – it's the stuff that conventionally sells, too, stratospherically wealthy women being more willing to part with six figures for a devastatingly elegant evening gown than a cute little suit. Here, the marriage of past and future was perhaps most extreme: taffeta plasticised, chain-mail enlarged and woven, guipure lace engineered into an architecture bell-shaped gown, and dresses 3D printed,.
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