Finding its feet in a baffling new venue, Epicurus will soon win you over with its exuberant excess, writes Jay Rayner
, Unit 90, The North Yard, Camden Stables Market, London NW1 8AH. Small dishes £3-£12, larger dishes £11-£16.50, dessert £8, wines from £29and you probably should, perhaps when drunk, be prepared to power up Google Maps. Maybe carry a sheaf of the Ordnance Survey’s finest and a compass. Better still, go with a young person who is used to navigating the cobbled, labyrinthine mess that is the refurbished Stables Market at London’s Camden Town.
Now it’s a veritable food-hatch Babylon. The air smells heavily of wok-scalded noodles and angry, indeterminate proteins slathered in soy-boosted sauces the colour of Donald Trump. There are chicken shops and waffle shops, over-stacked burgers and plant-based options, which look no healthier. If I was 16 once more, I know I would still be here an awful lot.
Epicurus is a side project by two ex-Palomar chefs, Shiri Kraus and Amir Batito, who already have a steakhouse in Camden called. This venture describes itself as an American diner, but one that’s been hanging out in Tel Aviv, and has picked up a distinct Middle Eastern accent. Take the Sloppy Joe, that ludicrously impractical, properly messy diner staple of sauced and seasoned ground beef in a hamburger bun.
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