The irresistible rise of panettone in Britain
at Christmastime in London. At first, they offered a taste of home to Italians in the British capital, and a festive treat for Londoners in the know. But at some point in the 21st century, they became ubiquitous, although misunderstood.
Panettone is a sweet bread, enriched with butter and eggs. The main constants are a round base and a light, fluffy texture. It is common in Italy to set strict rules about who can call their product “traditional” or “artisanal,” and Milan’s Chamber of Commerce stipulates that a “” must consist of at least 20 percent sultanas and candied citrus fruit. In practice, only a fraction of panettoni comply with these rules.
In the 1920s and ’30s, entrepreneurs like Angelo Motta and Gioacchino Alemagna started producing panettone industrially. Motta and Alemagna became household names, and remain influential in the Italian panettone market. They are now owned by Bauli, another Italian patisserie founded around the same time, and a big exporter of panettoni. “Industrialisation accelerated panettone’s spread across Italy,” Lazzaroni says. “It still wasn’t cheap, but it became a luxury that the masses could afford.
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