Runway history
. In the vernacular, pretension is a word associated with empty posturing, or misguided ambition that is greater than any actual skill. It certainly isn’t the first word that comes to mind when considering a celebration of Chalayan’s quarter century, in which time he has produced some of the most technically accomplished clothes on the market.perhaps we have its meaning all wrong.
And there are few designers who have pushed the boundaries as relentlessly as Hussein Chalayan. Emerging with a graduate collection made from fabrics he had buried underground to oxidise over a two month period, his designs were immediately snapped up by Browns, while his rigorous craftsmanship has earned him a reputation as one of fashion’s greatest alchemists, producing collections as dazzling as they are desirable.
Looking back across 25 years in the business, we round up Chalayan’s most striking runway moments and the groundbreaking designs they showcased, from shape-shifting robot dresses to outfits glittering with LED screens. It’s further proof – if you needed it – that a little bit of pretension can go a very long way.
Chalayan had already experimented with garments that could shapeshift with the touch of a button: what if he could create a dress that could not only move of its own accord, but also transform from a Victorian corset to a Roaring 20s flapper number, or a 1950s New Look skirt to a mod-inspired shift dress, in a matter of seconds? For his Spring/Summer 2007 collection, he did just that: with a series of six mechanised dresses, Chalayan took the show’s attendees on a whistle-stop tour through...
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