The new outpost at 45 Park Lane in Mayfair promises a revelation for local diners.
hotel, the exterior of which also fails to advertise the place. Further confusing matters, the entrance leads off a private room in the hotel’sin traditional dress as she prepares for one of the evening’s two services. At which point bar patrons must wonder what, exactly, went into their Negronis.
The price and the reputation create an expectation of perfection, the idea that nothing must fail or the whole meal is a wash. Nothing does. The nori is crisp and bracingly saline, the house-blend rice from Yamagata unctuous and comforting. The fish spans a range of taste and sensation, from the clean oceanic pop of salmon roe to a richly sweet octopus that has been simmered for five hours.
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