Among old cottages, a Tudor watchtower, a cheese shop, and two boarding schools, Greggs has arrived in the upmarket market town of Bruton, Somerset. Locals have mixed opinions
“I actually can’t believe the council allowed it,” Anouchka Towner-Coston tells me. “It’s like putting a sex shop in a secondary school. It’s appalling, it’s outrageous. I don’t think it should be here at all.”
The irrepressibly upmarket Bruton has become a town synonymous with the “farm-to-table” movement that has swept Britain in recent years thanks to a plethora of lauded restaurants. So perhaps it’s not surprising that some are wondering what Greggs – more commonly hailed as happy beacons in otherwise grey landscapes – is doing in one of the poshest towns in Britain.: I half wonder whether I might see Cameron Diaz speed around the corner.
At Briar, a new opening from the chef Sam Lomas, the printed menu lists the cycle of the moon and features dishes such as buttermilk fried pheasant, pancetta on toast with pickled quince, and Cornish pollock in anchovy sauce, all sourced locally. Everything is under £20: this is high-end but casual destination dining.has been the talk of the town,” Lomas tells me over coffee. “My kitchen porters, who are still at school, love it.
Another resident, nutritional therapist Fiona Milligan, is equally disparaging. “It’s ill fitting with Bruton,” she tells me. “It’s in such a prominent position. I see young people make a beeline for it before and after school. We have an obesity problem and I don’t think it should be here.”; others who seem wholly indifferent. In the town’s only pub, the Sun Inn, is a merry band sitting down to pints, homemade soup and farmhouse bread by the fire.
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