Vast horizons, rare animals and sublime night skies: a week-long journey across the country dazzles novelist Sarah Perry
Shortly before sundown on a Wednesday evening in July, drifting on a small boat down the Kunene river, which separates Namibia and Angola, I became aware that for some time not a single thought had troubled my head. Bee-eaters on the banks sought out supper, while the dish of a new moon floated in a burning twilight. An immense Nile crocodile with an ugly but good-natured face was taking a nap nearby.
When I woke early the following morning I dashed out to examine the alien southern hemisphere at dawn, and found Orion rising before six, and standing on his head. With Sossusvlei sand still in our boots, we flew the next day to Desert Rhino Camp, and were greeted again by scented flannels and glasses of sparkling ginger drink. Setting out in search of black rhino — a critically endangered species — we were cautioned against too much hope: there was no more than a 50/50 chance of finding one.
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