For Autumn/Winter 2024, Anthony Vaccarello wrapped bodies in fragile, ruched layers of stockinette and delicate veils, somehow evoking an entire house’s history in the process
Of course, there will be many who see these clothes as painfully exposing, as emphasising fragility and vulnerability, putting women’s bodies on show for other eyes – “the sex that looks and the sex that is looked at,” to borrow a phrase from the feminist film critic Margaret Walters. But that seems terribly reductive.
For Saint Laurent then – and now – transparency is aligned to liberation, for women in charge of their sexualities, their lives, comfortable in their own skin. “Nothing is more beautiful than a naked body,” said Yves Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello evidently feels the same. And for a fashion designer today, that is a proposition that sounds pretty revolutionary.
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