How a concert-going experience sparked a look at capes, from their historical origins to their modern-day reinvention.
Last summer, I saw Stevie Nicks in concert for the first time. It was magical for many reasons: her anecdotal interludes, moving tributes to the late Tom Petty and former bandmate Christine McVie, and also her wardrobe. Throughout the evening, the Fleetwood Mac star donned several of her signature capes; from the resplendent blue fringed piece she wore on the back cover of her solo album Bella Donna to her metallic “Gold Dust Woman” ensemble.
Capes – adjacent to a shawl, but different to a poncho, which is slipped on over the head – were once used in ancient military uniforms for protection against the elements. In the medieval period, they became more closely associated with church regalia. In the 20th century, they reached their apex in haute couture, central to the futurist designs at Pierre Cardin and the experimental embroidered iterations at Schiaparelli. Typically, a cape gives off of high-drama messaging. Angelina Jolie, for instance, is a longtime fan; a predilection only enhanced by her recent turn as Maria Callas, who wore opera cloaks. Capes have also dominated the red-carpet of late: the Dune: Part Two press tour brought many a cape-detailed gown to the party, as actors looked to method-dress through the promotional schedule. But look closely at new-season styles, and you’ll discover an unexpected daytime charm. Where Chloé’s AW24 collection boasts plenty of knee-length examples, as well as shorter “capelets”, in cotton, leather and a warm winter plaid, Burberry’s SS25 cape offering is more akin to a mackintosh, with the addition of a hood and a distinct wax-like effect. Alaïa’s Pieter Mulier included several pleated versions in his New York Fashion Week debut at the Guggenheim last September. Gabriela Hearst has made a trench-cape hybrid, and Japanese brand Auralee offers a similar one with its homage to the Ulster coat. Meanwhile, at Chanel, capes featured heavily for SS25: wisps of chiffon and frequently paired with denim
CAPES STEVE NICK FASHION TREND HISTORY OF FASHION MODERN FASHION
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