La Régalante is a 170-mile cycle network linking historic villages, windmills and abbeys in less-visited parts of Brittany and the Atlantic Loire, with pitstops at lovely bars and B&Bs
La Régalante is a 170-mile cycle network linking historic villages, windmills and abbeys in less-visited parts of Brittany and the Atlantic Loire, with pitstops at lovely bars and B&Bsto Nantes and, moments later, we’re rushing towards the sea on hired touring bikes. We’re heading along France’s newest cycle route, from the Pays de la Loire through Brittany to the tidal flats of Normandy.
Each chalet we stay at near La Clé des Champs is a cross between an Oliver Bonas lifestyle shop and a tractor repair shed Another 30 miles in the saddle takes us to Vitré, once described by Victor Hugo as one of France’s most beautiful citadels. Along the way, we pass over an ancient Gallo-Roman road, through a forest once used as a fuel depot by German troops during the Nazi occupation, and curve around lakes and rivers, silent except for the click of our gears. Then we are welcomed by Vitré’s showy castle, with its assortment of witches’ hat turrets and a surrounding hug of timber-framed porch houses.
That evening, we drop into Le Chat Noir pub and notice saucissons dangling like wind chimes from a rack above the bar. Two minutes later, one has been sliced into coin-sized pieces and served with cold beers at our outside table. Soon, more drinks are ordered in the fading sun.The route is made up of vast sections of disused railway lines, which sweep through forests that feel like well-kept secrets, so there’s no need to worry about traffic or tractors.
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