The Aqua Marcia was the longest of the city’s aqueducts, running nearly 60 miles from the countryside to the heart of ancient Rome. We followed its course, above and below ground.
The stone arches looped solemnly over their shadows, some teetering above the grass, some sinking into it. It was a dazzling January morning, and I was standing in the Park of the Aqueducts, about 20 minutes by metro from central Rome. Here, the ruined arcades of six of the 11 aqueducts that once supplied the Eternal City with an astonishing volume of water — by some counts, double the per-capita water allotment of a typical 21st-century American city — have been preserved.
Once we had negotiated the hand- and toeholds and were hunched into the shoulder-high specus, Diaz Boj pointed to a lozenge of light slanting down from a shaft: “Teams of workers excavated these shafts every 15 meters. When they reached the proper depth, two teams dug toward each other laterally until they joined up.” We passed bats clinging to the walls, and quills attested to the presence of porcupines.
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