'Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion' director Eva Orner talks colonial fashion waste in new Max documentary.
It might seem an unusual fit that Australian director Eva Orner, who took home an Oscar for her exposé of the U.S.’ interrogation practices during the Afghanistan war, would turn her lens to the fashion industry.Orner investigates the toxic management culture of the popular teen and tween brand Brandy Melville and takes a deeper look at fast fashion’s supply chain and the waste it creates.
In the film, the company’s toxic culture goes beyond how it treated employees and extends to the larger problem of clothing becoming disposable. “This story is very rooted in social media. But the joke’s on the customer, they make videos advertising for brands. And the companies are laughing all the way to the bank. Social media is really empowering and interesting to a degree, but I think it’s also incredibly damaging,” she told WWD.
“It’s women that are the main people that work in the fashion industry,” Orner said. “And its exploitation from the people who work in the fields growing cotton, through to the women who are predominantly the workers, through to the people who work on the shop floor, to the customers, and the models, and everyone along the way. And it’s just this series of women being exploited, most often not always, but most often by white men who own the companies who are super wealthy,” she said.
“Everyone sees the images of the beaches and is just stunned. That’s what I really wanted to capture because it’s one of the lasting images of the film that is sort of burnt on your brain,” she said of the impact.. The group advocates for globally accountable extended producer responsibility, as well as new frameworks for the fashion industry to take care of its waste.
The trailer went viral on TikTok ahead of the film’s release on streamer Max, with about 2.8 million views. Orner hopes that the film will reach the brand’s target audience, as well as inspire other former employees to share their stories.
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