Every few seasons, a new body part appears in the collections of designers.
Midriffs have been on display for the past few seasons, for example, lifted from designers’ obsession with so-called Y2K dressing. Waists were slashed to expose bare stomachs; indeed, in his past few collections, Christopher Esber barely showed any dress at all on the upper body, using strategically placed fabric to cover what was strictly necessary and leaving the rest to chance.
In the 1960s, Mary Quant and Pierre Cardin revealed women’s legs. But in the ’70s, hemlines lengthened to show cleavage instead. In the 1990s, fashion idealised the ironing-board bodies of models such as Kate Moss and Esther Canadas with designs such as Alexander McQueen’s bumster low-rise jeans. But just a decade before, it had made a virtue of the curves of women such as Brooke Shields and Madonna in’s sexy denim and in the glamorous designs of Jean-Paul Gaultier, Azzedine Alaia and Thierry Mugler. Other designers have used clothing to subvert our bodies and even disguise them: Rick Owens and Commes des Garcons have done this for decades.
They represent strength and authority in a genderless way. They can be forceful or playful; they can help the wearer take up space and protect them. They obscure the lines between men’s and women’s dressing, lending athleticism and drama. And, you know, they look bloody good, too. Regardless of what the rest of your body looks like, anyone can wear a power shoulder – and this season, it seems likely that we all will.
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