Helen Rosner reviews Clover Hill, in Brooklyn Heights, whose kitchen is run by the chef Charlie Mitchell.
Clover Hill opened in 2019, replacing a longtime neighborhood favorite, Iris Cafe. It operated for only a few months before the pandemic forced it to shutter. When it reopened, in 2022, the owners, Clay Castillo and Gabriel Merino, brought in the chef Charlie Mitchell to run the kitchen, and initially did only a high-end brunch. Mitchell, who’d been a cook at Clover Hill in its opening months, was a veteran of technique-oriented restaurants such as Betony and Eleven Madison Park.
He seems to have little interest in the idea that he, a high-profile chef, should be just as much of a draw as his food. The food that Mitchell prepares at Clover Hill has the subtlety and precision of any Manhattan-billionaire canteen. A course of rare shima aji garnished with fragrant nasturtium leaves and plum sorrel recalled something from Le Bernardin; the sweet flesh of the fish had been ingeniously minced to a caviar fineness without losing its firm texture.
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